Tag Archives: sculpture

All but the Signature . . . I hope!

I think “Tolt” is nearly finished. I just have to clean up the clay, make the pads under the horse’s feet more uniform in shape and sign the title, my name and copyright along the sides of those pads. Then I have to clean all that up too. (Signing sculptures is a pain – nowhere near as easy to do as signing a painting!)

I’ve spent literally two to three weeks pondering and picking at and trying to sculpt the rider’s hands until today when I finally got everything to work the way I wanted. It’s very hard to sculpt the part of the fingers and palm that are near the horse, so I finally turned the forearms and hands out away from the horse so I could see the inside shapes better. There are suggestions of fingernails there and even my customer’s gorgeous sapphire ring is shown as a general shape on her left hand. Her arms and hands were hard for me to do – getting the muscling and the shapes of the parts right is quite a challenge, but I think everything’s good now.

I like the way the wrinkles turned out in her shirt and breeches. I textured her clothing to make it look different from her skin when it’s bronze. I think it will be a nice look to have that slight texture on the cloth.

The clay stirrups you see on the working surface won’t be the ones used. I made Super Sculpey ones so they’ll be sturdier to ship (Super Sculpey is a polymer clay you can bake in the oven so it’s hard, unlike plastilene which is always soft.) The stirrups, stirrup leathers and reins will all be hand-made at the foundry for each piece, although they MAY be able to cast the stirrups. I’m not sure if they’re thick enough to cast well unless they use jewelry-type casting (centrifugal casting).

Without further ado, here are the pictures!

The shape behind the hoof is supposed to be a splash of dirt. I may change it a bit before declaring a victory on this piece.
When I saw this pic, I realized I need to add a browband. I’ll do that tomorrow.

I’ll be glad to get this one finished! I’ve been working on it a long time, but I’m happy with how it’s turned out.

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Beginning of the end – I hope!

I’m getting close to finishing this piece, HUZZAH! I just need to add a bridle on the horse and do the wrists and hands of the rider, thicken the tail a bit and make the rider’s eyes match better – they’re a tiny bit off. Then I have to sign it and I’m finished!!

The horse’s tail is nice and thick-looking from the back, but from the side, it isn’t quite bushy enough. Like most Icelandics, this mare has a really thick mane and tail. I think the mane looks pretty good, but the tail needs to be thicker and needs more movement as seen from each side. I’ll work on that today.

The “splash” you see behind that right hind foot is necessary for support and strength for the piece. In real life, that foot would be flying through the air like both left feet, but the horse needs more than one point of contact with the base in order to be strong enough to stand without bending the supporting leg. The “splash” of dirt may be modified a bit, I don’t know yet. It’s easy to sculpt them in relief, but doing them 3-D, it’s a lot harder to get the look I want.

The stirrups are on the working surface (the board) in front of the piece in the photo above. They won’t be attached until the piece is in bronze because they are too delicate to cast properly. They will be hand made for each sculpture, just as the bit rings, stirrup leathers and reins will be. I think I’m going to remake the stirrups out of Super Sculpey so they’ll ship more safely.

See how nice and thick her tail looks from behind? I need to get that feeling from each side too. Her ears barely show from all the flying forelock in real life. I’m still trying to decide if I want to put more forelock on her to hide more of her ears or not. What do you think? I’m open to suggestions!

The rider’s neck looks a bit rough because I haven’t cleaned this sculpture up with chemicals yet. When I finish, I’ll use a small filbert paint brush and some orange cleaning liquid straight from the bottle (I’ll squirt it into a small bowl I can dip the brush in) and paint the whole thing with the cleaning liquid. That chemical will melt the surface of the clay just a tiny bit, smoothing out some places and getting rid of the crumbs as well. I may still need to do some clean-up with tools after I use the chemical, but the chemical will show me where I need to do that.

She looks like my customer, which pleases me a lot since I haven’t done a sculpture of someone with an open smile before. Every picture I have of her, she’s got a happy smile on her face, so that’s what I used.

I have stirrup leathers on the inside of the rider’s legs, cut off at the point where they would not be against the leg in real life as they stretch to support the stirrups. The foundry will add flattened copper wire the width of the leathers I’ve started when they put the stirrups on.

If you have questions or comments, feel free to write me! Thanks for your interest.

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Ahhh, that’s better . . . "Tolt" and "Star Sons 2" news!!

I finally saw what was bothering me about the rider’s face. I knew something was a bit off, but I couldn’t quite figure out how to fix it. Then I saw it. The eyes were set too high (by about 1/16th of an inch), and the place where the nose dips in toward the eyes was set in the wrong place (by an even smaller margin). So today I put dabs of clay in the places where the eyes were, smoothed that out and started over – not my favorite thing to do, especially on something as delicate and difficult to create as the eyes on this rider. But I did it, and revised the shape of her cheekbones somewhat, her temples and browbone, the nose, and even brought the brim of the helmet lower and trimmed some off the top of the helmet. I like it a lot better now. I think I need to broaden the lower cheeks and jaw just a tiny bit on each side, and then it just might look like my customer! YAY! Here are some pictures to show what I accomplished today.

I know her helmet still needs straps, but I’m not going to add them until I’m satisfied with her face.

As you may be able to see from the pictures above, and will certainly see in the picture below, I also started working on the mane, getting the masses of the flying mane and forelock somewhat defined on one side, as well as filling in holes and undercuts so it will cast well.

I think this will be a beautiful piece! I’m excited to see it coming together so well!

In other news, I’ve finished the revisions on my second “Star Sons” novel (titled “The Gathering Alliance”) and am printing it out right now for a final read-through to make sure I haven’t missed anything in proofreading. The cover art is finished and there are only a few details to complete before it will be ready for publication. HUZZAH!!! I’ll post ordering info here and on Facebook and my Yahoo groups when it’s ready to go. It will be available from me as well as from Amazon.com, BN.com and various other outlets. You will also be able to order it in your local bookstore with its ISBN number. I’m excited to have this finished! YAAAY!!

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Evolution of a Face

As I posted on my fan page on Facebook, I had to cut the face off of my rider and redo it. I thought you might enjoy seeing how a face evolves – at least, the way I do it.

My rider started out with just a piece of clay shaped vaguely like a head, with eyes, nose and mouth just roughed in to give me a place to start. I left her like that while I worked on her body and clothes, the horse and saddle. Now I’m back to working on the rider’s face.

The face I first put on any figurative sculpture will look odd because I make the bone structure very prominent, particularly the cheekbones. It’s also my habit to start with more clay than I need and carve down to where the portrait is. Above you can see I’ve started refining the features on the left side of the rider’s face.

Here you can see the roughed in features and the basic shape of the head from the side. It isn’t too big yet, but it’s heading that way.

At this point (a week later than the previous pics), I’ve added and subtracted and pushed and pulled the clay trying to get the features placed where I want them. Some of it’s coming together, but the cheekbones are, as usual for me early in a figurative piece, too prominent and too high. As you can see, the head is now too big, although I haven’t enlarged the helmet enough yet for it to look like a real helmet fitted properly to her head. It’s mostly a brim on the skull I’d made before at this point. The nose is too long too. This is a petite lady with nice cheekbones, but hers aren’t this extreme. This is just the way I do it as I try to find my way to the portrait.

This is a couple of days later, more refined and looking more human, but the head is still too big. I just haven’t noticed it’s too big because I’m focusing on it too much. The lumpy clay in front of the rider is the beginning of the flying mane on the horse.

Side view from the same day. I like the ear but it’s a little big for her. I’m not happy with her nose, it just isn’t right yet. The head is still too big, and this is the day I realized that fact. To say I was unhappy is a bit of an understatement. *sigh*

After I realized the head was too big, I spent some of that time away from it trying to figure out what to do about it. I finally realized I was going to have to cut off the entire face. Argh.

Yes, it WAS painful to cut off her face! And then I had to cut off both sides of her head (two nice ears! WAAH!) and trim the back of it too! But it certainly improved the piece. After several hours of work, I was pretty well pleased with how she looks. I used minerettes (tiny tools – see picture below) and a small, firm cone-shaped rubber clay shaper to do most of the work. The tools near the top of the picture (below) are normal-sized tools. There’s a pop can to the left of the minerettes to give you an idea of their size. The metal one has a squared off loop at one end and a pear-shaped loop at the other. The two wooden ones are about half-again the thickness of round toothpicks. The top wooden one has a curved blade shape carved in each end. One of them has gotten rough from use (plastilene can grind down even metal tools over time). The bottom tool has wire tips that end in flattened spoon shapes. The wire isn’t much bigger than straight pin wire. I got these in Loveland, Colorado – I haven’t seen them in catalogs, but if you search for them, you might find them. I don’t often need them, but sometimes they are exactly the right thing to use.

And so I made a new face on my rider. Here’s where she is today:

She still needs some work, but she looks a lot more like my customer now! You may notice she has an open-mouthed smile now. In every photo I have of my customer, she has an open-lipped smile which is very pretty but darned hard to sculpt. I tried giving her a closed-mouth smile so it would sculpt more easily but gave up on it. The horse is flying and she should look like she’s having fun, so an open smile it is!

I don’t have the right lighting in the studio to show the detail of her eyes, but they look better than they do in these photos. I’m going to re-measure to make sure I have them at the right height. From the side they look fine but from the front, they look too high-set. Argh . . .

The mare has ears, a forelock and complete mane now, and I’ve started detailing it. That’s a lot more fun than fighting with tiny details in the face, but boy, fighting with those details is worth it.

Hope you’ve enjoyed watching “the evolution of a face”! I’ll post new pics as she continues to evolve.

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Boots, breeches and stirrups

Today I made stirrups for my rider. That’s a lot harder than you’d think. It took me a while to find the right size wire to be the top of the stirrup (to look the right size while covered with clay) and to make the tread of the stirrup strong and straight. I used scraps from the perforated aluminum sheet I’m using as the armature for Feather’s wings to make the tread strong and straight and aluminum armature wire for the top. The bottom loop where the stirrup leather goes through was added by just putting a roll of clay there and carving it down. You may be able to see that on the pic of the rider with the stirrup in place.

That pic is a bit crooked, sorry. The leather goes up inside the rider’s leg and is adhered to her leg and the horse, in the appropriate places. I’ll cut the stirrup off the piece just above where the leather goes through the stirrup when I get ready to send it to the foundry. It would just drop off if the piece was dropped or shaken as it will be in shipping. They can weld it in place in bronze.

The boots and breeches are done, and I think you can see the bottom of her shirt. She was wearing a blouse that wasn’t tucked in, and for now, I’m sculpting what she was wearing. I’m going to send her pics soon so she can decide if she wants her shirt tucked in, sleeves on the shirt (her shirt was sleeveless), etc.

This shot’s a bit closer, but also crooked – hard to get great shots with a phone. I’ll straighten these pics and re-upload them when I have more time. I’m kinda rushing to get this online right now.

BTW, this hind foot will soon be cut free of the wire holding it to the ground. This foot in reality wouldn’t have any dirt splashing up to support it, so I have to make it free. I talked to my foundry about it to make sure having only two legs on one side would be strong enough to support a piece this big without it bending. Bronze is soft, after all – it’s mostly made out of copper. Anyway, they said it should be fine, and they’ll put bronze rods inside the legs touching the ground to strengthen them if they think that support will be needed.

When I cut this foot free, I will cut the wire up inside the hoof (thus ruining that nice hoof, so I’ll have to sculpt it again) and then I’ll put a wall, sole and frog in the bottom of the foot.

This is how the whole piece looks right now. I haven’t done any work above the waist – it’s all just “placeholders” for now, measured pretty well, but not sculpted anywhere near what those parts will be like when it’s finished. I need to raise the shoulders a bit – they’re too low.

Anyway, that’s progress to date! Comments and questions are welcome.

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Details, details, details . . .

Now I’m at the point of building the saddle on the horse and making sure it fits the rider. The rider is nowhere near perfect yet, but she’s about as thick as she’s going to be front to back (this is a petite middle-aged rider). I may need to adjust the length of her legs once I get back to work on her, but for now, I’m just getting the saddle assembled and placed where it should be. I know I need to get her body more proportionate and to get her sitting on her seat bones. I’ll get there eventually.

At first, I had the saddle a bit long for this rider – If you look carefully, you should be able to see I’ve just cut the clay at the back of the cantle so it fits the rider better. I’ve just turned a bit of clay over to fill in some of the seat behind her, actually, and then put a cut behind the cantle as a marker for when I get back to work on it.

You can also see I’ve put feathers on three of the legs now, and those legs have also developed muscles, bones and tendons. I’ve put a bit of clay on the neck as well, starting to plan out the movement of the mane. The strips of clay ahead of where the saddle’s knee rolls should be in the picture below are just extra pieces I haven’t trimmed off yet. I’ve only developed the saddle on the left side and a bit on top. The right side will be done tomorrow.


Here are some detail shots of the horse and rider.

Don’t worry, her ankles and feet will be straight with no wire sticking out of them when I get finished. For now, this is very much a work in progress. The knee rolls are just being developed and will be shaped better before I declare a victory over them.

I’m pretty pleased with how it’s coming along. Hope you enjoy seeing its progress!

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Resetting the leg and repairing the shoulder

Continuing my saga of “Tolt’s” leg repositioning. I removed the wax from the shoulder area (a lot harder to do than it sounds – I’d put it in there REALLY well!) and broke the wax off the wire for the shoulder part of the leg.(The wax you can see here is on part of the armature. It will anchor the wax I’m going to use for the shoulder.)


Then I cleaned all the clay off that wax that I could and dropped it into the pan to be softened so I could reapply it.


WARNING!!! Working with melted wax is DANGEROUS! You can be severely burned if you’re not careful! Don’t say I didn’t warn you!

I didn’t need the wax to be melted, just softened, so I watched it carefully as it “cooked.” I had the electric griddle set to about 200 degrees so it would soften quickly (I’m not the most patient person in the world). I turned it over every so often so it would soften on both sides. When it was as soft as I wanted it, I scooped up a portion and put it in the shoulder cavity, which I had dug deeper so the leg would be set in a bit more than it had been before. Then I pressed the wire in place, made sure it was straight to the horse’s body and packed more softened wax on top of the wire. I pressed wax around the wire until the wax cooled too much to maneuver anymore to make sure the wire was strongly set.


The little knob of clay at the bottom of that leg isn’t the basis of the hoof – it’s actually part of the ground. Its function is to give the wire a strong anchor to the working surface. It will be surrounded and covered by clay as I build up the ground and the hoof for that leg (as shown below).

I added clay over the wax, rebuilt the shoulder and reattached the clay from the leg to the horse’s body. I haven’t done any muscle detail yet, and it probably needs a little more clay to be added, but here’s the finished repair.


If you noticed the thin band of clay around each coronary band, those are there so I can put hair on the coronary band. They will be textured and the clay blended in to the pastern so you’d never know I had a “worm” of clay around each hoof once upon a time. :)
The repair went well and didn’t take too long because I thought it all out before I started (always a good plan!) Moving the leg forward that small amount (about 1/8-1/4 inch) made a huge difference. I’m happy with it now. Onward!

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Trying Something New

I’m an equine artist, but I sometimes want a change of pace and do something different. (“Tolte” isn’t finished, but will be worked on at Equine Affaire – I’m saving some of the work for then. More pictures after that!)

A friend of mine (Holly McCullough, www.momandmereborns.com) makes those baby dolls that look like real babies. The process of doing this – painting the delicate skin tones, the veins beneath the skin’s surface, rooting mohair for the baby’s hair, etc. – is what Holly does. She buys the sculpts to “reborn.” She asked me if I’d ever considered sculpting dolls. Well, no, but I am interested in figurative sculpting, so I decided to give it a try.

There are various ways to make the doll heads. You can buy a sculpting form from www.secristdolls.com to which you add full round eyes (as opposed to flat-back eyes) and polymer clay like Super Sculpy (which is what I used for this one). They have an instructional DVD which I found very helpful, but as I worked, I decided they must have left out some information. They say to put two layers of clay on the form and just push that around to get the features you want. But their form isn’t shaped like a baby’s head, IMO. The back is too flat and the forehead slopes too much. I had to add four layers of clay to bring the forehead up to the rounded look I love in babies. I also had to put four layers of clay on the cheeks to get them pudgy at all.

I think the chin is too far forward too – a baby’s face, as I recall and as my research so far shows me, kind of falls away there, with the chin being farther back than the nose more than my doll’s is here. The ear looks big, but it fits the size of what they had on the sculpt as the ear locator.


I’m not that happy with his face. Sculpting squinchy eyes is hard for me – I’m used to doing big, open, soft eyes but little babies eyes aren’t like that. I may have too much depth in his eye sockets, I’m not sure. He’s CLOSE to done, but even if he is and I bake him this way (well, after I finish smoothing him), I’m not satisfied with him. I think the sculpting form restricted me too much. The next doll I do will be done on a styrofoam form that has no details, just a kind of shelf where the eyes go and then a pudgy place below that. It’s small enough that I’ll have to add a lot of clay to it, I think, before it will be big enough. But in those layers of clay, I will have the freedom to build the face and head the way I see them. Hopefully then I’ll like the resulting baby better. When that kind of sculpting form is baked, it shrinks to a nugget inside the head. I got those from www.hunnybunsrebornsupply.com owned by Stephanie Sullivan. She has everything you need to make doll sculpts or do reborning, and she’s local, so I had a lovely time talking to her! If you get the Secrist DVD, you’ll see one of her sculpts near the very end. I’ll post pics of the new baby when I get it done.

I know these babies will look a LOT different after Holly “reborns” them – I’m looking forward to seeing how they turn out!

The best thing is – this has been quite a challenge for me and has tested my sculpting skills in ways they haven’t been in years. That’s FUN for me!!

©Copyright 2010 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Of mice and jack o’ lanterns…

You can get a lot accomplished when there’s several feet of snow outside your door and the husband is home to watch the wee one. I finished my previously mentioned owl on the pumpkin sculpture and painted two fun welcome signs, one with a black Percheron and some spring flowers and another with a jack o’ lantern and a mouse peeking out of the nose. I suppose they shall both make their way over to Ebay sooner or later!

My daughter, who just turned 4, attempted her first horse drawing this week (I am so proud). Thought I would share. This is a large drawing on a piece of oversized construction paper I taped to the wall. She said the horse has a “million legs” (yikes). There are also some fairies around, Tinker Bell is green and Silver Mist is flying by on the top right. Bother fairies are holding flowers and the large horse has a baby horse with it and a rider.

Don’t forget! The Penny Tree Auction starts this weekend. Proceeds will benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. Read more about this wonderful work of art here, on the PFATT BLOG. I donated a glittery unicorn heart ornament for the tree.

©Copyright 2009 by Jennifer MacNeill-Traylor. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

“Feather”

It’s always fun when I get a new bronze from the foundry for the first time!  I’ve just received “Feather” and it’s wonderful to see how he turned out.  He’s 9″ long x 8″ high x 3 3/4″ wide including the turned head and flying mane.


As you can see, he’s available in both bay and silver.  He was intended to be a Pegasus, but after cutting him apart four times to try various armatures for the wings, I decided any wings I put on him would vibrate too much in shipping and damage the horse.  I had one bronze sent to me with no patina on it so I can make wings to fit it and mark where they go on the bronze.   Hopefully doing it that way will work!
If you’d like to see pictures of “Feather” as a work in progress as well as pictures of him with his first set of wings, click here:  “Feather”

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Franny the Snow Witch

Franny the Snow Witch came to life one day,
when some witches in the village went out for winter play.
Her body they made from snowballs, big and round.
For her nose they used a carrot they had found.
After placing the coal for her mouth and her eyes,
“Something is missing!”, the oldest witch sighs.
Removing from her head a hat pointed and worn,
then placing it on Franny’s and POOF, she was born!
Quickly they worked to build her familiar,
a cat named Snowball that looked quite peculiar.
Franny the snow witch came to life that day indeed,
to remind us of the magic of winter, the witches all agreed!



Franny is a friendly witch, she loves to sit and watch the birds all day long.

She measures 13″ x 7″ and both her and her kitty can be easily removed from their base.

You can’t see it in the photos,
but she has touches of diamond dust glitter and mica flakes all around her.
She can come live with you for $145. She will travel for free if you live in the US
Please email me if you would like to give her a new home.
jmacneill@hotmail.com

I have a few other Halloween pieces for sale in my Etsy Shop including a wonderful folk art Sleepy Hollow painting that’s one of my favorites!

I am working on a new Halloween sculpture this week, a large owl on a pumpkin!
Here’s a work in progress photo…

©Copyright 2009 by Jennifer MacNeill-Traylor. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Adding a Rider to the Icelandic Sculpture

While it is possible to build an armature for a horse and rider as one piece, I chose to do the rider separately so I can work on her detailing up close without the horse in the way.

As you can see, the horse has progressed a good bit since the last time I posted about her. Her right hind leg is close to finished as is her right shoulder. The bulk of her body is pretty much there, I just have to make sure all the depressions are tightly filled so the surface won’t collapse if touched, carve away what isn’t the horse I’m making and smooth everything out. Easy, right? Not when you’re working this big! I’m used to being able to put my hands around the horse’s barrel, warming the clay with my hands and smoothing it with my thumbs. This piece is simply too big to do that. I’m having to use a lamp and a hairdryer to warm the clay enough that I can smooth it with my hands. I can carve it down with the tools, but sculpting is in my hands, so I have to run both my fingers and palms over it to see if it feels right to me.


The horse has no saddle at the moment, but will by the time I’ve finished it. The rider’s right leg isn’t quite long enough yet and the foot isn’t formed at all, but I’m just seeing how the horse and rider fit together here.
I need to build up the thickness of the rider’s legs and arms so she’ll be proportionate. She will have short hair and be wearing a helmet and Kentucky jods (breeches that are boot-cut so she can wear short boots) unless my customer decides she wants to be in different clothes. I can always add long sleeves if need be and change the style of her pants and boots.

As you can see, the horse’s right side is more developed and the rider’s left side is more developed. I have pictures of the rider’s armature somewhere – maybe in my laptop. I’ll post them when I figure out where I filed them!
The rider’s eyeballs are made of harder clay in a different color so I can see what I’m doing when I shape the eyelids, browbone, etc. around them. The horse’s dark eyes are either beads or earrings – I’ve forgotten now what I used. I like to use a hard spherical thing as the eyeball so I can build the eye socket properly and not get the eye out of round. That isn’t possible for humans, since the pupil is cut out to make the eyes look alive. Horses have horizontal, sort of rectangular pupils, not round ones like we have, so their eyes are usually shown as just round, no pupils cut out.

The direction the horse is looking is shown by the angle of the upper eyelid and the position of the head, neck and ears. The direction a person is looking is shown by the location of the pupil and iris of the eye, with the pupil cut out (like a bowl, a rounded cut) and the iris either cut out more shallowly for dark eyes, or just scribed on the eyeball for light eyes (like blue eyes, such as my rider has). The direction a human’s eyes are looking is also indicated by the highest arch of the eyelids, since the lens of the eyeball pushes the lid out a little bit. I haven’t carved out my rider’s pupils yet.

This face isn’t really a likeness to my customer yet – it’s more of a place holder while I get her proportions right. Once I’m happy with the rest of her, I’ll detail the face so it looks like her, then add the hair and helmet. The line carved down the center of the horse’s face is there to help me compare sides to make sure she’s symmetrical.

Here I’m seeing if she’s sitting straight, if her shoulders and knees match (not yet, although the shoulders are close), etc. I haven’t worried about doing a likeness of the horse yet either. As you can see, her right eye is a bit low. I’ve already repositioned both eyes twice to get them at the right height for the size of this horse’s head. Once I move the eye that’s in the wrong position (I think that may be the horse’s right eye, the one that we see on the left side of the photo), her face will be straight. Then I can detail her head, finish detailing her neck and the rest of her, and add her saddle. Her bridle will be added after I add the ears and before I add the massive amount of flying mane this mare’s going to have. Getting things “straight” with each other is one of the hardest things about sculpting, in my opinion.


The rider has two prongs that come out where her seat bones would be located on a real person (dressage riders may chuckle at the idea of how easy it would be to “plug in” if you had such prongs coming out of your seat bones, LOL!). These prongs are inserted in the horse’s back to hold her in place. When I’ve finished sculpting the rider and her saddle, I will mark the saddle to show where the rider should sit and will cut off the prongs. The rider will be sent as a separate piece, not as part of the horse. Since her armature isn’t built as part of the main armature, she would come off the horse in transport if I shipped her mounted on the horse.

Can you tell that the rider’s shoulders and head are just a wee bit off? The head is leaning a little bit to the left and the left shoulder is a little bit high. By “a little bit” I mean perhaps as little as 1/32nd of a difference. You’d be amazed how much of a change can be made by carving off a tiny bit of clay or moving something like an eyeball just a tiny bit. I use a mirror and photos I post on my computer to help me see where the errors are. Sometimes it’s hard to see them when I’m looking at the real sculpture. The artist’s eye at some point tends to see what they hope is there, not what’s really there. I’ve heard this lots of times, mostly about painters, but it’s true of sculptors too. Looking at it backwards (in a mirror), in a photo or even upside down is quite useful in helping you see with fresh eyes.

You can see the mare’s frog, heel and hock on the right hind leg. That shows this leg is nearly done. A lot of the detail I put in the rear end of the horse will be hidden by the tail, just as a lot of the detail in the neck will be hidden by the mane, but I put it in there so I know it’s correct before I add all that hair. I also need to add feathers to the legs and a beard to the horse’s head and throatlatch. All of that comes much later.

That’s where we are for now! These are “pose approval” photos which I send to my customer for them to approve. If they like it, they’ll send the second payment on the job. If they want something changed, this is the time for them to tell me or I’ll have to charge them extra for the time it takes me to make the change. All of this is spelled out in my commission contracts.

I hope you’re enjoying watching “Tolte” evolve from wires and pipes to a finished bronze!

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Delaware Art Museum

On Sunday we ventured out to the Delaware Art Museum in Wilmington for the last day of their exhibit on Maxfield Parrish (sorry couldn’t take photos of that – it was amazing though).
The DE Art Museum is such a gem, one of my favorite small museums. It won’t overwhelm you like The Metropolitan or the Philadelphia Art Museum. The best part is, it houses an impressive collection of my two favorite styles of art: illustration and Pre-Raphaelite. And… get this… on Sundays, it’s free!
Here are some photos from our day…


�”Crying Giant”� – awwww, poor guy.

I could stare at this piece all day. I didn’t get the artist’s name�but it looks like N.C.Wyeth.

A fine example of American illustration.�The Peacock Robe by George Watson Barratt. This was Zoe’s favorite painting of the day.

A lovely Rossetti painting.

The Spring Witch by George Wilson (1880)
I think this was my favorite in their Pre Raphaelite exhibit.

More modern art upstairs. Here’s a wonderful Deborah Butterfield horse sculpture.

The cabinet my family is looking at in the background was amazing. It’s called the Queen’s Closet by Richard Cleaver. Made of beads, wood and ceramic, it’s the ultimate mixed media piece of art. When knobs are pulled and drawers are opened, they reveal images of king Henry VIII’s 6 wives. On the back it shows their fate…

Without art, the crudeness of reality would make the world unbearable. ~George Bernard Shaw

©Copyright 2009 by Jennifer MacNeill-Traylor. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Doing Research for Your Art

I love the forums at http://www.wetcanvas.com.  Artists of all experience and skill levels hang out there and discuss media, techniques, critique each other’s work, etc. in a friendly, supportive atmosphere.  I highly recommend WetCanvas to artists of all levels, both amateur and professionals.

A few days ago, I was writing a second critique (at the artist’s request) on a colored pencil piece and started getting philosophical about how you should look at horses (or whatever your subject is) in order to portray them in art. At one point, I said, “Sounds like I’m starting a blog post,” so here I am, writing that blog post.

When you paint, draw or sculpt something that’s alive and you want it to LOOK alive, you need to represent it as accurately as possible.  I’m not saying all art has to be realistic, but if you do something that looks at least somewhat realistic, then the joints and muscles should be in the right placement and position for whatever movement is going on.

“Reflection” (cold-cast porcelain, shown above) certainly isn’t built realistically.  The structures in the head and neck are exaggerated or stretched to make the piece an impression of this horse.  Those who know this horse (Reg. name, “Rusted Spruce,” show name when my daughter had him, “Imagine A Legacy,” barn name “Stretch”) recognize him despite his being stylized.  That was my goal, to do a recognizable portrait yet make it unique in its style. And yes, I realize there are errors in this piece, but it was also one of my earliest sculptures, so I was still learning my craft.  Yet despite its flaws, it’s a lovely piece, has won awards and sells well.

Too many artists depend only on pictures for reference.  That’s fine, but you also need to learn about the subject, whether it’s a horse or a human or a cat or a raccoon – whatever it is, it has a particular way its eyes are set (for instance).  Horses, being prey animals (dinner for other animals, in other words), have their eyes on the sides of their heads so they can see behind them as well as in front.  When a horse is grazing, he can see 350 degrees around him.  A predator has his eyes on the front of his face, like a human, a dog, cat, lion, raccoon.  These are species who chase down other animals to be their dinner.  Their range of vision is much smaller than a horse’s – 150 degrees for dogs and cats, and a smaller range for humans since our eyes are set more to the front of our heads than they are on dogs and cats.  (Ref:  http://www.mini-horse.org/vision_range.html)

My husband was standing just a bit to the right of center (as he faced my horse Ricos) when he took this photo, which is why the right eye looks bigger than the left.  You need to pay attention to these distinctions when using photos for reference.

You may not be able to see the chipmunk in this sculpture since the photo’s small, but this cougar, a predator, has his eyes on the front of his head.  The chipmunk, a prey animal, has them on the sides.  (The chipmunk’s on the rock near the bottom and just left of center in case you haven’t found him yet.)  This piece is “In the Wind” and is a bronze.  All the art shown here is mine, BTW.

Each species has a particular way of moving.  Horses have four legs, but they don’t move the same way cats, dogs or armadillos do.  You need to understand the pattern of footfalls for each species you portray, and in the case of many animals like horses and dogs, you need to know how the breed you’re portraying moves.  A dressage horse moves much differently than a Paso Fino, for instance.  A Chinese Crested moves much differently than a German Shepherd.  If you don’t have a clear understanding of such things, you may make a bronze or a painting that will last for years and years but is portraying an inaccurate movement, inaccurate tail carriage, the wrong shape and attitude of the animal’s ears, etc.  People who know that kind of animal will look at the artwork and shake their heads, wondering why you didn’t do enough research to know how much weight that leg should bear at that point in the stride, why you have a Quarter Horse doing a pace instead of a trot, why your Chinese Crested isn’t doing a prancing trot, why the German Shepherd isn’t built with his haunches lower than his shoulders, etc.


One way to learn about the structure of animals is to go see them in person.  It’s even better if you can run your hands over the animal’s legs or muscles with your eyes closed as well as with them open, so you can get a real understanding of their structure.  What works for me, and what I recommended to the artist on WetCanvas today, is to find a horse (in this case) that has been bodyclipped (since they’re in winter coats now) so the muscles, tendons and bones are as easy to see and feel as possible.  If you can’t find a bodyclipped horse, then one with smooth hair over their legs will do.  A horse with feathered legs like “Masestoso” above, isn’t what you want to look at for this exercise.  Point of interest about horses with feathered legs:  When examining a Friesian for one of my Friesian sculptures (an earlier piece than this one), I discovered the feathers start at the chestnut – halfway up the forearm, and just below the hock.  I had no idea they started that high until I did my research on a live horse.


“Presence” (Bronze, above) has lovely clean legs.  It would be easy to run your hands over them to learn their structures.  Before you start working around the back legs of a horse you aren’t familiar with, ask the horse’s handler to hold the horse’s front leg up to keep the horse still and protect you from being kicked.  Then gently run your hands down his legs, learning the feel of the muscles, tendons and bones and how they work together.  Be sure to cup your palm over the hock bone itself – that point isn’t sharp nor is it small.  It’s a big, wide bone that will fill your hand.  Remember that when you’re portraying it.

Once you’ve run your hands over his legs, if you’re a 2-D artist, sit at eye-level to the horse’s hocks, but far enough away that he can’t kick you, and draw his leg, paying close attention to the joints, muscles and how everything’s tied together.  Have someone lift a back leg and run your hands over that hock joint and the pastern when they’re bent, then sit down and draw them.  Do the same for the front legs.  If you’re a sculptor, do a quick sketch in clay of the leg you’re studying.  You’ll be amazed at how much this exercise improves how you portray legs.

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

A little old, a little new and one cute cat!

By my senior year in high school they ran out of art classes for me to take. Weird, I know, but it was a very small, rural school. I was allowed to make up my own class, Advanced Art, and I was given free rein to explore whatever type of media I wished (I even was able to grade myself – guess who got A’s?).

My photography class was down a distant hallway which held all of the industrial arts classes. Not many girls went down this hall except for me. I was always curious about the woodworking shop so I persuaded the instructor to let me do a sculpting project for art class (I think he was happy to see a girl in his class). After showing him my sketches, he hooked me up with a gorgeous hunk of wood and handed me some chistels and a small ax. The grain fit the piece so beautifully I torched it (very scary) and used a wire brush to bring out the beautiful pattern.

Well, here is my sculpture from 18 years ago. Recently rescued from my mom’s house and a little banged up. It’s the only piece of art I’ve decided to hang on to from my youth. I think it’s kind of cool.

“In Harmony”

Riding high on my win for the Trail of Painted Ponies design contest, I’ve created another original Painted Pony titled, “If Wishes Were Horses”. Inspired by the beauty of horses, childhood fantasy and dancing Lipizzaners. Painted with my favorite colors, purple and green, as the background and base colors. I’m really happy with how he turned out and will put him on Ebay today.

And one last photo just because she’s the finest thing I’ve ever created, my daughter Zoe showing some love to her kitty, Pumpkin!

©Copyright 2009 by Jennifer MacNeill-Traylor. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Mounting "Just Tryin’ to Help" and "Tolte" progress

“Just Tryin’ to Help” is a bronze comprised of two related sculptures, a filly and a man. Both are 1/4 lifesized. The man is looking directly at the filly when they’re arranged correctly, but after seeing how other folks move them around, I decided they needed to be on a base to relate to each other properly. So my basemaker, Diane Soper of Sistermaide Woodworking in Lewisburg OH, made beautiful bases for me (as usual!) and today we mounted the bronzes. It took a lot more doing than you might expect – I hold the horse upside down in my lap while she makes a template for the bottom of the bronze, marking where the drilled and tapped holes are inside the bronze’s base. Then she marks the wood and drills the holes and we spend a lot of time trying to line up the hole in the bronze with the hole in the wood from the bottom of the wooden base. It’s a lot more trouble than it sounds like, believe me! And because it’s so much physical labor and hard on both of us, I think I may have the foundry (which is full of big, burly men!) put the base on “Tolte” since it will weigh between 60 and 80 lbs! Anyway, here are pictures of my beautiful Bitsy baby when she was a little one, and my hubby John, in a scene from real life here on our farm.

And now more progress on “Tolte.” These pics show progress made as of 12/27/09.

The toothpicks sticking out of her are markers for joints (knee, hock, fetlock) and her eyes, to help me keep things measured correctly. The small lump of clay at the top of her right shoulder is a note to myself to build that shoulder up more, since her weight is on it (this after a visit from my daughter, Jennifer Truett of Dancing Horse Farm, Lebanon OH – she’s a dressage trainer and FEI level rider with a great eye for conformation). I wasn’t really at the point of building that shoulder up yet, but since Jennifer pointed it out, I put a bit of clay there to make sure I wouldn’t forget to build it up. I try to get her to look at my sculptures at least before they go to the foundry so someone who knows what to look for can make sure I haven’t missed anything!

Yesterday when I went out to the studio, suddenly that right foreleg (the one that’s on the ground) looked too far back. I messed around with the muscle a bit to make sure my eye wasn’t being fooled. It wasn’t! So I had to rip that leg off – yes, that’s what I said! I had to remove the clay that was over the wax, then soften the wax by warming it with a hair dryer. Once it was warm enough, I could remove the leg and the pad of wax that was holding it in. Here’s the hole after I removed the leg.

I cleaned out the hole, cleaned off the armature wax I would need the next batch of wax to adhere to, and moved the hole in the shoulder forward so the leg would be about 1/4 inch farther forward than it was before. Here’s the horse with her leg replaced.

I still have a lot of repair work to do. I had to cover the shoulder with clay and build it up again (and add the height to it that indicates it’s bearing weight, as my daughter pointed out) and repair the sculpting in the leg itself as well as making it stick to the board with some clay.

The problem with working with wax is that wax chips (bits that get broken off while working with it or while removing clay that’s touched it) get into everything, so I spent quite a while picking chips of wax out of the clay. If I’d left them there, the bronze would have strange-looking bumps and flat spots here and there because of them, which wouldn’t be good at all!

Here’s the mare with her shoulder repaired and her leg in better shape.

I’m still not happy with her shoulder, but her foreleg is in a better position. I will double-check the position of her hind legs now that there’s enough clay on them for me to have a better idea how all of her parts are going to relate to each other.

I don’t know if I’ve shown you how I melt the wax. I use metal cake pans on electric griddles. I have to be careful to not get it too hot. The lump you see here is the wax I removed from her shoulder, which I used in her shoulder again once it had softened enough to work with.

And that’s where I am now. Her barrel needs to be filled out a bit on the bottom so it’s evenly round and I have to check those back legs, but overall, she’s getting into decent shape. Before I get too detailed on her, I’ll have to start her rider. That’s another blog for another day . . .

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

“Tolte” work in progress

This is the piece I wrote about before, when I was showing how I was doing a different kind of armature than I normally do.  She’s a lot farther along now than these pictures show, but I haven’t had time to take newer pics of her yet.

After working on her for a while, I realized that pushing on her to add clay was making her armature twist on its post.  I should’ve glued the post into the floor flange as well as the plumbing T. Normally, wax should hold the T in place with no problem, but I’m pushing the piece pretty hard, so cold wax could crack and loosen. Super Glue to the rescue!

I cut her belly open (not such a huge job since she’s still mostly a silhouette,  not filled out much at all) to expose the bottom of the plumbing T and cleaned the wax off the metal at the bottom and up inside the T a bit so the glue would be attaching metal to metal, not metal to wax.  It wouldn’t be as strong a seal if the glue attached metal to wax.  To get to the bottom of the T so I could put the glue inside the place where the T meets the pipe, I had to lay the horse over on her side.


Once I got the glue in place, using a toothpick to apply it, the piece could be set upright again and I could go back to work.  I think you’ll see in the following pictures that I added clay to the wax around the bottom of the leg wires to help anchor them to the table.  There will be a whole patch of ground under the horse, so once I have that in place, the feet will be secure.  With my normal aluminum wire armature, I just staple the wires in place to be secure, but with this heavy copper wire, that’s not possible.

I scraped back the clay at the shoulders and hips until I reached the wax so the wax I’m using to hold the leg wires in place will stay put.  Wax makes a strong bond to other wax, but its bond to clay is not as strong.  The legs are firmly in place now.

The horse is still much thinner than she will be when she’s finished, but I made sure I built the wax and clay up so her legs are coming out at the right part of her body.  They aren’t set too far inside nor too close to the surface.  More clay will be added over the wax.  Here’s how it looks:


I know it looks like the leg bones are too far back in the front leg that’s on the ground and too far forward in both back legs, but I promise  you, once the muscle’s on it, they will prove to be in the right place!  And if they aren’t, I’ll move them until they are!

Here she is after I covered the wax with clay:

She’s still skinny, but we’re making progress!  Here’s how she looked a day later:

I’ve laid on enough clay to thicken her body quite a bit.  I know there are some proportions that are wrong for now, and the line of her back/loin/croup isn’t the best, but I’m getting there!

I have clay down the length of some of her legs now.  I’ll take more pictures and show you her progress again soon.

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

“Fontana Dei Cavalli Marini”

My husband loves Italy. He has opened that world to me and now I love it too.

We joke about the fact that I don’t see enough horses when we go there. Lots of wonderful olive groves and vineyards stretching to the horizon, but not a lot of horses. So, I found inspiration in the beautiful horses in the fountains of Rome. I plan on another painting of the Trevi fountain soon, but this year I finished a painting of one of the fountains in the Villa Borghese Park.

The sparkling Italian sun on the water trickling over the edge was beautiful to me and I loved the colors that reflected all over the gray stone sculpture. I couldn’t wait to paint it and so here it is….”the Fountain of the Sea Horses”.


©Copyright 2008 by Joan Jannaman. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Joan Jannaman’s website.

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