Tag Archives: how-to

Doing Research for Your Art

I love the forums at http://www.wetcanvas.com.  Artists of all experience and skill levels hang out there and discuss media, techniques, critique each other’s work, etc. in a friendly, supportive atmosphere.  I highly recommend WetCanvas to artists of all levels, both amateur and professionals.

A few days ago, I was writing a second critique (at the artist’s request) on a colored pencil piece and started getting philosophical about how you should look at horses (or whatever your subject is) in order to portray them in art. At one point, I said, “Sounds like I’m starting a blog post,” so here I am, writing that blog post.

When you paint, draw or sculpt something that’s alive and you want it to LOOK alive, you need to represent it as accurately as possible.  I’m not saying all art has to be realistic, but if you do something that looks at least somewhat realistic, then the joints and muscles should be in the right placement and position for whatever movement is going on.

“Reflection” (cold-cast porcelain, shown above) certainly isn’t built realistically.  The structures in the head and neck are exaggerated or stretched to make the piece an impression of this horse.  Those who know this horse (Reg. name, “Rusted Spruce,” show name when my daughter had him, “Imagine A Legacy,” barn name “Stretch”) recognize him despite his being stylized.  That was my goal, to do a recognizable portrait yet make it unique in its style. And yes, I realize there are errors in this piece, but it was also one of my earliest sculptures, so I was still learning my craft.  Yet despite its flaws, it’s a lovely piece, has won awards and sells well.

Too many artists depend only on pictures for reference.  That’s fine, but you also need to learn about the subject, whether it’s a horse or a human or a cat or a raccoon – whatever it is, it has a particular way its eyes are set (for instance).  Horses, being prey animals (dinner for other animals, in other words), have their eyes on the sides of their heads so they can see behind them as well as in front.  When a horse is grazing, he can see 350 degrees around him.  A predator has his eyes on the front of his face, like a human, a dog, cat, lion, raccoon.  These are species who chase down other animals to be their dinner.  Their range of vision is much smaller than a horse’s – 150 degrees for dogs and cats, and a smaller range for humans since our eyes are set more to the front of our heads than they are on dogs and cats.  (Ref:  http://www.mini-horse.org/vision_range.html)

My husband was standing just a bit to the right of center (as he faced my horse Ricos) when he took this photo, which is why the right eye looks bigger than the left.  You need to pay attention to these distinctions when using photos for reference.

You may not be able to see the chipmunk in this sculpture since the photo’s small, but this cougar, a predator, has his eyes on the front of his head.  The chipmunk, a prey animal, has them on the sides.  (The chipmunk’s on the rock near the bottom and just left of center in case you haven’t found him yet.)  This piece is “In the Wind” and is a bronze.  All the art shown here is mine, BTW.

Each species has a particular way of moving.  Horses have four legs, but they don’t move the same way cats, dogs or armadillos do.  You need to understand the pattern of footfalls for each species you portray, and in the case of many animals like horses and dogs, you need to know how the breed you’re portraying moves.  A dressage horse moves much differently than a Paso Fino, for instance.  A Chinese Crested moves much differently than a German Shepherd.  If you don’t have a clear understanding of such things, you may make a bronze or a painting that will last for years and years but is portraying an inaccurate movement, inaccurate tail carriage, the wrong shape and attitude of the animal’s ears, etc.  People who know that kind of animal will look at the artwork and shake their heads, wondering why you didn’t do enough research to know how much weight that leg should bear at that point in the stride, why you have a Quarter Horse doing a pace instead of a trot, why your Chinese Crested isn’t doing a prancing trot, why the German Shepherd isn’t built with his haunches lower than his shoulders, etc.


One way to learn about the structure of animals is to go see them in person.  It’s even better if you can run your hands over the animal’s legs or muscles with your eyes closed as well as with them open, so you can get a real understanding of their structure.  What works for me, and what I recommended to the artist on WetCanvas today, is to find a horse (in this case) that has been bodyclipped (since they’re in winter coats now) so the muscles, tendons and bones are as easy to see and feel as possible.  If you can’t find a bodyclipped horse, then one with smooth hair over their legs will do.  A horse with feathered legs like “Masestoso” above, isn’t what you want to look at for this exercise.  Point of interest about horses with feathered legs:  When examining a Friesian for one of my Friesian sculptures (an earlier piece than this one), I discovered the feathers start at the chestnut – halfway up the forearm, and just below the hock.  I had no idea they started that high until I did my research on a live horse.


“Presence” (Bronze, above) has lovely clean legs.  It would be easy to run your hands over them to learn their structures.  Before you start working around the back legs of a horse you aren’t familiar with, ask the horse’s handler to hold the horse’s front leg up to keep the horse still and protect you from being kicked.  Then gently run your hands down his legs, learning the feel of the muscles, tendons and bones and how they work together.  Be sure to cup your palm over the hock bone itself – that point isn’t sharp nor is it small.  It’s a big, wide bone that will fill your hand.  Remember that when you’re portraying it.

Once you’ve run your hands over his legs, if you’re a 2-D artist, sit at eye-level to the horse’s hocks, but far enough away that he can’t kick you, and draw his leg, paying close attention to the joints, muscles and how everything’s tied together.  Have someone lift a back leg and run your hands over that hock joint and the pastern when they’re bent, then sit down and draw them.  Do the same for the front legs.  If you’re a sculptor, do a quick sketch in clay of the leg you’re studying.  You’ll be amazed at how much this exercise improves how you portray legs.

©Copyright 2009 by Lynda Sappington. See original post here.

To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

My Watercolor Plein Air Set Up

I have had a few requests from readers to see my plein air set up for watercolors. I actually have 2 set ups for wc. A small one in my purse which I will detail in another post and my larger set up for bigger paintings. I use the Alla Prima 10 x 12 Bitterroot Pochade Box for my watercolors. This is a really great box hand made here in the USA by Ben Haggett!

Here is the box ready to go. I have a lightweight, 11 x 16 masonite board, my chair, water and tripod strapped to the pochade with elastic straps and I have added a shoulder strap that I took off an old bag. The whole thing weighs about 8 pounds.

Here a couple of photos of the set up. Ready to paint.

I use an enameled metal box which folds up and fits in the drawer or my new Heritage palette from Cheap Joe’s (which I really like but does not fit in the drawer) for my paints. I fill my own pans with M Grahams and a few Holbein colors. Board fits very nicely into the magnetic clips of pochade. I can also fit blocks of Arches paper in a variety of sizes very nicely. This is one versatile pochade box. I love seeing other set up so post links with what you use!

Below is a photo of my painting buddy- my 10 year old son, Aidan. He really enjoys the plein air experience and has been creating a watercolor nature journal.

©Copyright 2009 by Deborah O’Sullivan. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

The Frugal Artist: Removing Old Paintings

If you’re like me, you have at least two paintings lying around somewhere that will never be finished. They started out with a grand and glorious idea, but went astray somewhere.

You hate to throw that panel away because you paid good money for it. But you have no idea whether or not it’s safe to paint on or how to prepare it if you do decide to paint on it.

Today, I’m going to share with you one way I prepare a panel for painting after a painting has already been started on it.

The panel I am using for this demonstration is 24 x 30, 1/4-inch masonite. Smooth on one side, rough on the other. The panel was originally prepped with a minimum of three coats of acrylic gesso. My goal is not to get all the way back down to the gesso, just to remove as much of the several layers of paint as possible.

If you don’t have a circular or orbital sander (and I don’t), the first step is to scrap the panel with a single edge razor blade. Use caution! These things are sharp!

But they work wonders on a painting whether you’re removing large or small areas of work.

Hold the blade with the cutting edge flat against the panel to avoid gouging the panel. (The corners of the razor blade can be rounded if you prefer, but this is not necessary). Pull the blade across the surface with medium pressure (about a five on a scale of one to ten, with ten being the heaviest). Work over the areas where the paint is the thickest, but don’t ignore the other areas.

Work in several directions, too. Side to side across the painting. Up and down. Diagonal. The result will not be an eggshell smooth surface, but it will produce the smoothest surface possible.

Because this is physical work and tiring for hands, wrists, arms and back, I alternate scraping and sanding by scraping a small area, then sanding it.

I used to use sheets of sand paper, then a few months ago I was in the hardware store and found sanding blocks. What a great invention!

This (at right) is a “fine” grade sanding sponge with sanding surfaces on both sides. It can be washed out and re-used, so has quite a long life span. The cost was about the same as about five sheets of sanding paper. They come in various grits and for various surfaces. This one is actually a wedge shape for getting into corners, but it works great for sanding used paintings, too!

The sanding technique is a lot like the scraping technique. I work on alternating directions, turning the panel frequently so the sanding is as even as possible.

I also use a circular stroke quite a bit to eliminate any lines that might remain of previous brush strokes or from other sources.

As already mentioned, the goal here is not to remove every bit of paint and get all the way down to the gesso layers. If I had an orbital sander, I could do that. I have had panels sanded all the way through the gesso and down to the original masonite. That is a great way to recycle a panel, but it also requires a power tool and a reasonable amount of dexterity. I have the dexterity. I don’t have the power tool!

What I am looking for is a surface that is even or has just the right amount of texture. If you are going to be painting with thicker paint and using impasto passages, you could get by with a more lightly sanded panel. If you’re doing detail work, you will want as smooth a surface as possible.

Once the panel is completely scraped and completely sanded, wipe it off with a clean rag or paper towel. Make sure to dispose of these properly, as well as the shavings and dust.

There will potentially be a lot of shavings and dust, so be prepared. Work in an area that is well ventilated and it’s a good idea to at wear a mask over your nose and mouth. I usually do this type of work outside the house to avoid leaving shavings and dust around the studio. If you have to work inside, a vacuum cleaner is invaluable for picking up the remnants of your work.

CAUTION!
This only works with rigid supports. There are ways to remove old paintings from canvas (yes, even stretched canvas), but the kind of rigorous treatment I gave this panel would grind a hole in a stretched canvas! You don’t want that!

Now that your old painting has been removed, it’s time to prepare the panel for the next painting.

©Copyright 2009 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Where’s the Color??

A friend wrote the other day. She said she’d been following this blog, but that all she’d been seeing was the dead layer. When was I going to post some color, she wanted to know.

I had to chuckle at that. I am having a lot of fun and learning a lot painting in halftones, but I, too, have been feeling the tug of color for some weeks. Were it not for the portrait of Guienne Hanover, which I am working in color in the old method, I would probably have already jumped the gun and started putting color on something.

But patience is probably the most important ingredient in the Flemish technique. It is no more critical at any time than when getting started.

The technique is great for working multiple paintings at once. The artist whose workshop I am following generally has enough paintings going so that even though paintings dry for two, three or more weeks, he always has something to work on. He can move from one to the next and not be delayed the least bit by drying times. It’s all worked into the schedule.

He also has paintings at every stage of the process. An umber layer to work on, followed by a dead layer and maybe a couple with color.

I’m not there, yet. I do have a dozen paintings in progress, but since they were all started at about the same time, that means they are all at about the same stage.

But they have begun sorting themselves out to some degree. Contemplation is nearly ready for the color stage — the first one to reach color.

Afternoon Graze and Joker will also soon be ready for color and Blue Cooler and That Darn Itch will soon be completed at the dead layer.

In the meantime, Impulsion and Buckles & Belts are ready to begin the dead layer on and I am finishing the umber layer on Rose and beginning the umber layer on Lockkeeper, the newest portrait. The ministry portrait of the Little Dog has also just passed the minimum three-week drying time at the umber layer phase, so I can start thinking about the dead layer for it.

Another six images are on the drawing board in various stages, either waiting for supports or waiting for development, so I am very quickly approaching that point at which I will have something to work on at every stage of the process and should, therefore, never find myself with nothing to work on!

In the meantime, I have set up a page for each painting, featuring most of the notes from individual blogs as well as additional notes. You can take a look at the front page by clicking here or by clicking on the tab labeled “The Paintings” at the top of the page. Just click on the title of each painting to follow its progress.

And I promise, Lord willing and if the creeks don’t rise, there will soon be color notes to post! Honest!

©Copyright 2009 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Classical Painting Blog

On Tuesday, February 17, I launched a new blog.

Classical Paintings will focus on the work I will be doing with the Flemish painting technique. It will feature news and updates on the trials and errors of learning something new.

It will also feature gallery pages to showcase paintings as they are finished.

It will also be very highly focused and probably will not cover other studio news unless it relates directly to that technique and the paintings that result from it. That sort of news and information will be available on the Horse Painter blog, as always.

I hope you’ll swing by and take a look at the new blog. I’m very pleased with the concept, as well as the overall look. I certainly learned some new coding techniques in setting it up.

One other thing I want to do is set up RSS between the blogs so readers will know when there are posts. Since launching the writing blog, I have been posting three days a week to the writing blog and three days a week to the art blog. Having RSS on each one will be especially helpful with a third blog.

Whichever one you follow, I hope you enjoy them.

As always, thanks for reading and best wishes.

©Copyright 2009 by Carrie L. Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Feb 13 – Horse in Pasture, Second Pass, Not Done yet!

Take a look at this canvas and compare it with the last post, and see if you can see what I’ve done on this 16 x 20 oil. I’ve spent my time going over the canvas, making those large initial color shapes far more interesting.

It isn’t finished yet, but coming along nicely. I’ll post it when the signature is on, and I’ve fixed some of the issues that are in my head about it.

One of the six value plans that I cover in my workshops is called “Gradation in large shapes” and this canvas is a perfect example of that. Every large color shape has been made more interesting with colors that are close to the initial shape’s dominate hue, and yet are of a slightly different value, creating the gradations. Note the trees for the clearest example–the horse is more subtle in those variations, yet that’s what makes it “look” like a horse.

I’m gearing up for the ten students to arrive later today for the beginning of the first California Color Boot Camp of 2009! They start out this evening with a “meet and greet”, and then in the next three days we’ll be using the theater for lectures and the outer studio space for painting. It will be incredibly busy! I’ve even made a new dvd for my lectures on both the values plans and the Color System for my lectures!

The April workshop is full already. I still have spaces in both the Florida and Maine workshops, if you want some “Color Boot Camp” treatment. I just love teaching!

You can see my entire blog HERE.
My workshop schedule for 2009 is HERE.
Color System information can be found HERE.
If you need to email me directly, please click here.

©Copyright 2009 by EquineArtist Admin. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit her website.

Street Sense continued

The next three pictures are stages in the work Street Sense.

In the first photo I have started to block in the other objects in the painting, along with the beginning layers in his hip. The objects that are blocked in here are his Kentucky Derby roses blanket and his Derby trophy. They are blocked in with thinned down Burnt Umber. I wanted to have these in place so that when I started blocking in the straw I could work around them. The hip area has been started with layers to start giving shape to his body.

The next picture in the post shows more beginning layers in Street Sense’s body. There is eventually quite a build up of layers to get all of the coloring right. I have also added small details to get started such as his white markings and his eye.

And finally I have added some muscle definition with many layers. At this point his hip is basically done. I have started to paint the background color and started getting some layers down for the straw. This is to start grounding him and the trophys and giving them their space in the painting.

©Copyright 2008 by Rickelle Nelson. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Rickelle Nelson’s website.

Design Your Own Trail Obstacle Course – Associated Content

Design Your Own Trail Obstacle Course
Easy project for building safe obstacles for the purpose of training the green trail horse prior to actually hitting the trail.
http://www.associatedcontent.comarticle/85914/design_your_own_trail_obstacle_course.html

Posted in Uncategorized      

©Copyright 2008 by Bethany Caskey. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Bethany Caskey’s website.

How to paint the horse in watercolor – CD ROM

I have been updating my website. You can now purchase this CD ROM, How to paint in watercolors, the horse standing, through a Paypal cart on my site. Click on the ‘Books & gifts’ page on the site to order your CD ROM. This is an instructional CD and it is in a book format. It opens in a PDF file.
I also now have a Paypal cart button for my new book, Children & their 4-legged friends, a series of watercolor paintings & poems. That is listed on the same page as this CD ROM.
Happy shopping!

Debbie

Debbie Flood, Artist. Equine, Wildlife, and the natural world.

http://www.debfloodart.com

©Copyright 2008 by Debbie Flood. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Debbie Flood’s website.

The Painting Process: Panel Preparation

This work in progress is going to be a little bit different than most of those I post on this blog or on the On The Easel section of my web site.

This one begins with the preparation of the support.

I have been intrigued with painting square compositions since first working with a square in 2007’s Shadwell Estates brochure competition. That was followed in 2008 with the panel I painted for the Mural Mosaic Le Cadeau Du Cheval, which was larger, but was also square.

I also happened to have a piece of masonite left over from a 24″ x 48″ sheet. It was 22″ x 23″ or thereabouts and when I had Neal trim it, I decided to make a square out of it. So this piece of masonite is 22″ x 22″.

The first step in the preparation process is to remove the label from the back (rough side) of the panel and to sand the front side. I want to remove the ’smooth’ coating on the front of the panel, but do not need to do a lot of heavy sanding. To break up the surface, I might use a coarser grit sand paper, but most of the work is done with either 60 or0 grit sand paper.

Sanding work is done by hand. A good orbital sander would work very nicely for larger panels or for panels that have already been used. For example, I gessoed a panel that had ball point pen marks on it and the ink seeped through every layer of gesso. Neal used an orbital sander to remove the gesso and the ink and the panel looked fresh-from-the-store new.

A full sheet could also be sanded this way before being cut, but I prefer to do the sanding by hand and after panels have been cut to size. The reasons are three-fold.

First, I prefer to do the work by hand because that allows me to monitor the condition of the surface as I work. Smoothing my hand over the surface periodically tells me where the panel needs more sanding and where it has been sanded enough.

Working by hand is also slower and more deliberate. If I sand too much, it’s likely to be just a little bit too much. Getting carried away with a power sander could be destructive!

Finally, any marks made on the panel during the cutting process can be sanded off prior to any further work, thereby avoiding the problems described above.

All sanding should be done in a well ventilated area and/or while you are wearing some kind of breathing protection. I much prefer to do my sanding work outside, but know that’s not always possible, especially during the winter months.

Once sanding is complete, the panel is wiped lightly with a dry cloth to remove the dust of sanding. An old sock works great, but paper towel is adequate, as well. Dust can also be removed with a large brush such as house painter’s brush.

The next step is applying a ground. I use acrylic gesso and I use the best I can buy, usually Golden Acrylic Gesso. Colored gessos are available, but I have always used white. It can be easily tinted with acrylic paint if a color is required. Personally, there is something very nice about a pristine white surface when I begin to paint. Since I do a lot of glazing, white also works best and does not affect subsequent glazes like a colored or tinted gesso would.

Gesso is applied at least three times all the way around the panel in a very orderly fashion. One layer on the front and ends to begin with. When that is dry, I turn the panel over and put a layer on the back and on the top and bottom edges. That process continues until the entire panel (front, back and all four edges) have three layers of gesso.

If I want an ultra smooth surface on which to paint, I will sand each layer of gesso lightly to remove brush strokes. A very fine sand paper is recommended. Once again, 60 or 80 grit is what I reach for most often, but something finer would also work. Do not, repeat DO NOT, use the same piece of sand paper for this part of the preparation process that you used to sand the panel.

Another option for an ultra smooth surface would be to thin the gesso a little bit with water in the final stages. I have not used this method before, but have heard from other artists that it works very well to produce an almost toothless surface.

If I want a little bit of tooth to the surface, I may sand at the end of the gesso process or, I may leave the last layer untouched and not sand at all.

Gesso is applied horizontally in the first layer, vertically in the second layer, and diagonally in the final layer. With each layer unsanded, the result is a very nice canvas-like texture that works great on larger paintings.

Something I have often considered but have never tried is creating different kinds of texture by spreading various types of cloth over the final layer of gesso before the gesso dries.

A nice linen pressed into wet gesso and pulled up immediately and carefully, for example. Or a more coarse fabric like burlap. Anything might be used to create unique surface textures and painting surfaces.

After the last gesso has been applied, the panel is ready for drying. Gesso usually dries to the touch in an hour or less, depending on weather conditions, but I generally let panels dry at least over night and quite often for several days. It is not uncommon to prepare several panels at the same time, then store them until they are needed. One word of caution, though. If you do prepare panels ahead of time and store them, don’t store them one against the other. Larger panels should also be cradled with stretcher bars on the back or should be stored flat.

Now that the panel is ready to go, the next step in the painting process is developing the composition.

Thanks for reading and best wishes!

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Finished – Always in Style

Always in Style
16″ x 20″ on Raphael Linen Panel

Always in Style is now officially complete! The final touch was brushing up the background with Titanium White and Manganese Blue first thing the morning of December 17. And that was it!

The portrait was photographed and a digital image sent to the client the same morning and approval has since been received.

This portrait will now be in the drying room for two weeks, then will be framed and sent to its next stop, the 2009 Michigan Harness Horseman’s Association Annual Art Auction.

The 2009 auction and District 2 Annual Meeting of the United States Trotting Association will be held on Saturday, January 24 at the Detroit Novi Sheraton Inn in Novi. Artwork being offered during the auction will be on display all day and the auction will begin at 5 p.m.

This portrait was purchased at the 2007 MHHA auction and I was able to meet and photograph Always in Style a year ago this month. It is a delight to be able to now present the finished portrait as a sample of my work for those who will be bidding on the current donations.

Many thanks to the owners of Always in Style and of this portrait for allowing this use of their painting.

More information on horse portraits and frequently asked questions about horse portraits.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Always in Style, Part 12

Always in Style

16″ x 20″ on Raphael Linen Panel

December 15, 2008

The end is near! Very near!

Today, I glazed Burnt Umber over the mane, forelock and the insides of the ears to warm up those dark, dark shadows, then stroked in highlights with a mixture of Titanium White and Manganese Blue with either Burnt Umber or Raw Sienna mixed in depending on where the highlight was.

I also enhanced the highlights on the muzzle and the face below the nose band, rubbed Burnt Umber into the darks above the nose band and dry brushed the blue tint around the highlight in the eye. That pretty much finished the horse.

The next thing on the list was the halter, which I am building strap by strap, buckle by buckle. The leather was painted with a combination of Titanium White, Burnt Umber and Manganese Blue, with the addition of Raw Sienna in reflected light areas. The hardware is Titanium White, Raw Sienna and a little bit of Manganese Blue and Burnt Umber.

The halter was complete when I finished for the day, but I wasn’t confident enough that the painting was done to touch up the background. One more look tomorrow or the next day and that should do it.

I followed that up with some additional work on the halter on December 16. This time through, I used a lot of Raw Umber to enhance shadows in the halter, the mane and forelock.

It is definitely looking like the painting can be finished tomorrow unless I see glaring problems when I look at it again.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get any photographs of the painting in these interim stages because of cloudy weather and gray, flat light. My apologies for that oversight.

More information on horse portraits and frequently asked questions about horse portraits.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Selling Original Art vs. Reproductions

One of the most common questions I have received from emerging 2D artists is whether to sell their original works or reproductions. Another popular question from emerging artists is “How do I make reproductions?”

Before getting into these two topics, let me share a piece of advice I received early in my career. I once had inquired of a mentor: “What should I draw? I don’t know what people will buy.” His reply echoes in my mind to this very day. Very directly he stated, “Forget what people will buy – you draw what you love.”

When one creates from a place of love or passion, the creative power that comes forth is quite strong. When one creates with the intent of manipulating circumstance (i.e. getting people to buy something), the creative process is distorted. Start with what you love or are passionate about in some way, then let the ideas flow from there.

Now, should you sell original works or reproductions? The answer for me from the start was a hearty “both!” Some artists do not like to part with their originals, and that is indeed a personal choice. My own feeling is that too many works accumulated in my storage area creates congestion, both physically and metaphysically. I like to keep the work moving out, so the consequential vacuum allows new ideas to flow in. Nature abhors a vacuum it is said, and you will find that the moving-out process invites the flowing-in process to continue its natural cycle.

Having said that, I always create a hi-resolution (hi-res) image of an original before it is posted for sale. This hi-res image gives you the freedom to reproduce the work later, and can be archived until such a decision is made. In past years a hi-res image meant a 4″x5″ transparency shot by a professional photographer. These days it usually means a digital file that is created either with a scanner or a professional digital camera. If you do not have studio photography experience, then pay for professional quality image recording of your work. I repeat, this image needs to be the highest quality possible. It can be used later to make reproductions, advertise your work, apply to a juried exhibit, etc. This is not the place to pinch pennies.

Stay tuned to upcoming posts as I will be discussing some of the options and “how-to’s” for reproducing two dimensional artwork.

©Copyright 2008 by Kelli Swan. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Kelli Swan’s website.

Horses in Landscape, Part 4

Dinner with Friends
30″ x 24″
Oil on Masonite

Colors Used: Titanium White and Raw Umber

This painting is going through a phase in which I am grateful for the under painting technique I use. One step forward and two steps backward, to be sure!

In the last post on this painting, I was working on the two horses at the right side of the painting. A lot of time had been put into the dark colored horse and, after taking a backward step on it, I thought I had it figured out.

But when I looked at it the next time, I found some major flaws in the dark horse and didn’t much care for the light horse, either.

I hadn’t worked on the painting for a week. That meant it was nice and dry, so when I went back to work, I didn’t pick up a paint brush. I picked up a piece of sand paper. I didn’t put paint on the canvas; I took it off

Sanding focused on the two horses and when the paint had been sufficiently removed and the surface was nice and smooth, I wiped the dust off with a rag. Only then, did I begin painting again.

But instead of working on the horses, I decided to paint all of the meadow. Lots and lots of tall grass. I did that for a couple of reasons.

The first one was to further cover up the horses. Concealing mistakes is often the best way to fix them and I thought I would do some more drawing on paper to figure out the problems, then repaint the horses.

Since it was the last day to work on this painting before the weekend, painting in the grass would allow for the prompt completion of a large portion of the painting and would provide sufficient time for it to dry while I figured out the horses.

Raw Umber and Titanium White were applied in horizontal bands across large sections of the grassy area. Sometimes they were blended lightly at that stage, sometimes they were not blended at all. In a couple of areas, I used the tube of paint itself to apply the paint.

Using a #20 white bristle brush (shown here), I pulled the colors into and over one another to simulate grass. In some areas, the paint was dragged with short brush strokes. In some areas, I simply pressed the length of the bristles into the paint, letting them spread and create random patterns. That actually worked better, so I went over much of the ‘pulled’ paint with the ‘pressing’ method after the entire area had been painted.

When I paint grass, I like to apply paint in the direction the grass grows. But it is not natural for me to stroke upward with a brush, so I turned the painting upside down for this part of the process.

Turning the painting upside down also tricks my eye into seeing values rather than the composition. That keeps me from getting too caught up in detail when what I need to be doing is covering the larger area.

This is what the painting looked like at the end of the day and the painting week. In spite of the way it began, I was happy with it. The landscape itself is very pleasing, if a little off balance. The thought even crossed my mind that I should add a few more landscape features and turn this into a landscape painting.

A rolling fence line maybe…?

Maybe not.

The next step is to tame the horses with pencil and paper while this work dries, then transfer them onto the painting and get them finished.

This painting is available for sale. Pre-Completion Purchases receive a 10% discount off full retail price upon payment of order deposit. Payment in full in cash earns a 20% discount off retail.

Interested buyers may also request basic changes to the painting such as changing the color and markings of the horses.

Thank you for reading and, as always, best wishes.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Always in Style, Part 11

Always in Style

16″ x 20″ on Raphael Linen Panel

December 8, 2008

My goal for today was to get this portrait finished or to get as close to completion as possible.

The portrait is not finished, but it is now very close.

I painted the mane and forelock to as close to finish as possible working wet-in-wet. I think the forelock looks great, but the mane is a little too black, so I will want to glaze some dark earth tones over that when the paint dries. Probably in a couple of days.

I also darkened the darks in the eyes, ears and nostrils and around the mouth and began painting in the halter.

What remains to be done is finishing the halter, dry brushing some highlights into the lower face, the glaze i mentioned over the mane and touching up any areas in the background that need work. Most of those things can probably be done in an hour or less, but will need to wait for paint to dry. I am very hopeful of having the portrait finished and in the drying room by the end of the week.

More information on horse portraits and frequently asked questions about horse portraits.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Always in Style, Part 10

Always in Style
16″ x 20″ Oil on Raphael Linen Panel

December 1, 2008

A late start today. It was about 9:45 p.m. before I got to the easel today, but once I got started, it was a good session.

This time around, I started with Style’s eye and worked around it, color by color, until I’d worked over the entire face and blocked in the forelock, as well. I used almost every color on the palette.

The cool highlights such as those under the eye are mixtures of Manganese Blue, Titanium White and the earth tones that surround those highlights. The warm highlights are a mixture of Titanium White and Raw Sienna with a little bit of the blue mixed in.

Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber are the earth tones used and, in the very darkest areas, I added a bit of Manganese Blue.

Several different brushes were used, as well; larger brushes to apply color, smaller ones to move it around and blend it.

It was a fun session and when I finished for the day, I could see that major steps forward had been taken. It will take a fresh eye in the morning to know if adjustments will need to be made, but for the moment, I am very pleased!

More information on horse portraits and frequently asked questions about horse portraits.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Always in Style, Part 9

Always in Style
16″ x 20″ on Raphael Linen Panel

November 17, 2008

I worked on the portrait periodically throughout the day and managed to do a glaze over the rest of the horse that included work with Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber, then adding some highlights with Raw Sienna mixed with Titanium White. The work of adding details continues section by section.

By the time I finished for the day, it was looking pretty good. The face needs a lot more work and the mane and halter need to be painted, but after that, it’s just touching up as needed, then dry time.

November 28, 2008

No studio work was accomplished yesterday (Thanksgiving Day), but I did take a look at my reference photos looking for a good, secondary image to provide some of the details missing in the primary reference. In the course of doing so, I discovered that the overall color is much too red.

So when I started to work today, my goal was to adjust the color overall and to work detail in as many areas as possible.

The first thing I did was rub Raw Sienna over all of Style’s head, face and neck. That provided a good base for the rest of the day’s work.

Using Titanium White, Raw Sienna, Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber, I began painting again with the shoulder and worked my way up to the neck, then to the head, blocking in highlights and mid-tones, then blending the edges where necessary and adding shadow where necessary. The mane was also re-established as a shadow of the finished mane to help create the proper shape and mass of Style’s neck.

Her jowl and jaw are now finished and the off side ear is also finished. I worked around her eye and made much improvement on that area. The face will need to be finished and I need to work on the eye, as well. Then the halter will be all that remains and the portrait will be complete.

More information on horse portraits and frequently asked questions about horse portraits.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

Horses in Landscape, Part 3

Dinner with Friends
30″ x 24″ Oil on Masonite

Colors Used: Titanium White and Raw Umber

This week has been a challenge with this painting. I worked on it three consecutive days, but didn’t seem to make much progress.

Once again, the focus of my attention was the dark horse on the right, but I also worked the grassy areas around that horse, taking advantage of having wet paint with which to push edges around and adjust shapes.

The first image shows the work done on the first work session this week. The work that day involved building darks and increasing the value range by adding some brighter highlights.

I also painted in the head and neck and worked on the front legs.

That was on Wednesday

I called that work ‘good’ for the day, but wasn’t satisfied with it. In the study painting and again with this one, there is something quirky going on with the hip and croup of this horse. Something that creates problems with the hind leg.

So when I went to work on Thursday, the first thing I did was ‘undo’ the back end. I turned the painting upside down and painted lighter values and grass shapes over the hind leg and a good part of the tail with the thought that painting it out and starting it over would be a wiser course of action than continued tweaking and frustration.

This is what it looked like after I’d done that. Looks like a huge backward step, doesn’t it. That’s certainly how it felt.

After lunch and throughout the afternoon, I worked at correcting problem areas and replacing those missing limbs.

One thing I did right away was trim the topline, pushing the hip backward slightly and adding lighter color over the back. I also raised the tailhead and thickened the tail overall, which allowed me to trim the heavy muscling of the rump.

It also allowed for a more pleasing looking croup (the area between the hip and the top of the tail) and that, as it turned out, was the best thing I did for the day.

Continued tweaking with the belly and flank as I replaced the hind leg, as well. Working wet-in-wet allowed for continued manipulation of the edges and an overall improvement in the conformation of this horse.

Now, the tummy tucks too much and there’s a pinched look to the flank, but those problems seem minor in comparison to what was going on. Still not 100% satisfied, but steps in the right direction.

On Friday, I finished up work for the week on this painting.

I had hoped to finish the dark horse, but that was not possible. Some additional changes were made in the areas I noted from Thursday’s work, the shape of the tail was changed and some brighter highlights were added, but that was all.

I did begin blocking in the lighter horse, as well. Establishing the value for that horse will assist in getting the right values on the dark horse.

This was also a good time to address the lighter horse because the painting will now have at least two full days to dry and whites take longer to dry than the earth tones.

At the end of the session, it went back onto the drying easel, where it will remain until Monday at the earliest and quite possibly until later in the week. It has been cold and damp in Newton, so drying time is lengthened. I like the winter months, but winter weather can play havoc with getting paint dry.

This painting is available for sale. Pre-Completion Purchases receive a 10% discount off full retail price upon payment of order deposit. Payment in full in cash earns a 20% discount off retail.

Interested buyers may also request basic changes to the painting such as changing the color and markings of the horses.

Thank you for reading and, as always, best wishes.

©Copyright 2008 by Carrie Lewis. See original post here.
To learn more about this artist, visit Carrie Lewis’s website.

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